H&M says laid-back elegance are back for spring, and we couldn’t be more thrilled.

This month, the brand launched its S/S24 H&M Studio collection, which takes inspiration from the relaxed, effortless silhouettes of the ’70s mixed with tailored elements to create something distinctly contemporary. The result is a stylish mix of sheer, drapey pieces in muted tones contrasted with sumptuous wool sweaters in vibrant colours, structured garments in classic materials like leather in denim and chunky statement accessories.

The Swedish brand’s first studio collection was released in 2013, and each release offers an elevated take on the brand’s signature DNA. “The H&M Studio collections are our most fashion-forward collections, designed by a dedicated team at the Stockholm atelier and developed as they would be at any major fashion house, says Ann-Sofie Johansson, creative advisor and head of design womenswear at H&M. “Each season, the design team discusses ideas, maybe a mood they want to capture, and builds a moodboard of images, words and ideas that encapsulate the collection.”

The H&M Studio S/S24 collection will be available in selected stores and at hm.com starting February 29. Here, we chat with Johansson about the inspiration behind the new collection, her favourite pieces and how to style them.

What was your vision when designing the collection? What was the inspiration behind the colour palette and silhouettes?

“For spring, we wanted to capture a spirit of freedom, self-expression and adventure. We envisioned a 1970s-era musician on the road. She’s a free spirit, the kind of character who travels light. She picks up pieces from thrift shops and markets (a cargo vest, a denim shirt) mixing them with pieces she’s borrowed from a friend (a great flowing dress) or much-loved items she’s worn for years (a fantastic leather coat). In terms of the colour palette, dusty, buttery tones are offset by blues and greys—the ground and the sky—with a rainbow print adding vibrancy. The silhouette is bold, with strong shoulders and tapering hemlines that feel modern and easy to wear.”

This collection has a ’70s look to it, but feels distinctly modern. How do you bridge retro and contemporary aesthetics?

“Well, we never want to be too retro—we are more interested in answering the question: How do you build a modern wardrobe today, in an effortless way? I think the key is to apply a contemporary lens to 1970s wardrobe codes. The 1970s was an inspiring era when fashion really cemented itself as a tool for expressing personality. But it also gave us wardrobe codes that feel utterly contemporary—leather coats, tailored suits, well-cut denim. We wanted to explore these pieces that have become classics for a reason, and revisit them in elevated fabrics, imbuing them with contemporary details and cuts to bring them into the present day.”

What are some of your favourite pieces from the collection and how would you style them with existing wardrobe items?

“I have a passion for tailored coats, and I love the oversized one in this collection. The colour is so interesting—almost the colour of wheat or barley, which feels unexpected but is surprisingly versatile. You could dress it up with smart trousers and a shirt or wear with denim on the weekend and it would feel easy. I also love the big chunky ring—it adds a bit of fun and playfulness which is something we always like to have in Studio collections.”

What piece do you predict will be the most popular and why?

“It’s hard to say, as I think there are so many great pieces for different personalities—a feminine draped dress can appeal to someone just as much as a sharply-cut blazer appeals to someone else! But I do think the denim items have universal appeal, you can wear them anywhere, and the denim shirt has a great cut that’s super flattering. It’s the ultimate throw-on-and-go piece.”

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